I found myself in a conundrum while dining with some friends a few weeks ago. Which white wine should I order? As I gazed at the never-ending list I felt intimidated. I just couldn't imagine imbibing another glass of Chardonnay. Don't get me wrong, Chardonnay at its best is a wonderful and tasty choice, but vintners and wine distributors have completely over-saturated the market with it. My dinner companions suggested a delicious alternative: Viognier. Never heard of it? Just stick around. Viognier is just getting noticed -- even though it isn't the new kid in town -- and its gaining popularity.
Early History
Viognier, pronounced VEE-ohn-yay (there is no "g" sound), started in the Northern Rhone Valley of France, and became famous as the grape of Condrieu and then Chateau Grillet. The exact origin of this rare varietal is uncertain, but historians believe it dates back to at least the Roman Empire. The Emperor Probus imported Viognier into Condrieu from Dalmatia (what is present-day Croatia) around 281 AD, replacing vineyards that had been destroyed by his predecessor, Emperor Vespasian. Supposedly Vespasian ravaged the Condrieu vineyards after the locals revolted -- a revolt which the Emperor attributed to drinking massive quantities of native wine!
When the Romans left Gaul (what we now call France) in the 5th century AD, the vines remained uncultivated until locals revived them four centuries later. The vines then slowly spread to neighboring Chateau Grillet, and from there to the papal palace at Avignon by the 14th century.
Despite the Viognier grape's ability to survive the Romans, in the mid- to late-1800's it faced another threat. The phylloxera insect, which was brought from North America to Europe, decimated the Viognier vines. Compounding this disaster, many vintners were later forced to neglect and ultimately abandon their vines due to the ramifications of two world wars in the first half of the 20th century. By 1965, only a meager 30 acres of Viognier vines remained in the entire country of France, leaving the Viognier grape almost extinct. Given its difficult history, it is amazing that Viognier still exists today.
Viognier Today
Fortunately, today Viognier is making a comeback in France, Australia, Brazil and California, as well as several other locations, and its production is slowly increasing. However, it isn't necessarily an easy comback as Viognier continues to be a finicky and delicate grape to grow. It often falls victim to mildew and is very vulnerable to predatory insects and unstoppable disease. Growers must be patient and allow for lower yields.
A Beautiful Fragrance
The signature of this wine is the breathtaking aromas. As a wine snob friend of mine proclaims, "it gives good sniff!" As the olfactory and taste sensations in a human being are strongly linked, the fragrance of a wine can have a powerful effect on how much you enjoy it.
According to The Oxford Companion to Wine, 3rd Edition, by Jancis Robinson, one of the foremost wine experts in the world, "The grapes are a deep yellow and the resulting wine is high in color, alcohol and a very particular perfume redolent of apricots, pears, peaches and blossoms." The book goes on to say "Viognier has to be fully ripe before it reveals its trademark heady aromas." This means that the grower and vintner must be strategic in the picking of the grapes and then the crafting of the wine.
Kevin Zraly, author of The Ultimate Wine Companion suggests, "Viognier should be drunk young and fresh -- the ravishing scent fades after a year or two."
Because of the delicacy of the grapes and resulting lower yields, it makes sense that Viognier can be expensive. It is often priced well above $20 per bottle and can soar upwards of $50 or more per bottle. However, if you visit your local BeMo, Trader Joe's or any discount wine outlet, you can find adequate Viognier for $13 or less. I found a delightful bottle for sale for $7.99. Remember, more expensive does not always mean better.
In their book The Everything Wine Book 2nd Edition, Barbara Nowak and Beverly Wichman suggest a few brands to try (these prices were current at the time of publishing):
- Alban Vineyards (California) Viognier $30
- Chateau de Campuget (France) Viognier $11
- Yalumba (Australia) $10
- Windmill Estates (California) $13
So next time you are out, bypass the Chardonnay for once and take your nose and taste buds on an exotic Viognier holiday.
Sources
- Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine, 3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006, Print
- Kevin Zraly, The Ultimate Wine Companion, Sterling Publishing, 2010
- Barbara Nowak and Beverly Wichman, The Everything Wine Book, 2nd Edition, Adams Media, 2005, Print
Becca Rader - Becca is a freelance writer focusing on travel, wine, music, spirituality, pets, holistic health and human interest.
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